Nomad Norwoods
From Quito to NYC and all the places in between
a Change of perspective
We are embarking on an eleven month adventure from September 2022 to August 2023. Travelling to Ecuador, Galapagos, Colombia and various other destinations (which we haven't quite ironed out yet) and ending in New York.
The aim of this website is to be a link for us to share with our nearest and dearest where we are and what we are doing.
If anyone else stumbles across this then you are very welcome.
galapagos: the place that keeps on giving
We are in the final few days of our stay here in the Galapagos archipelago, but we are still being wowed by the variety of wildlife that is on our doorstep. On Thursday afternoon we took a stroll down to the port and saw a school of bright orange rays, the likes of which we have never seen before, just swimming near the jetty. We also saw two turtles, unfortunately we were so awed by these sights that we didn't think to take pictures of them. We then saw...
A school of black tipped sharks.
A sea lion pup playing with a leaf on the dock steps.
And a little baby marine iguana playing peek-a-boo with me.
Charlotte and I found this scene hilarious as it epitomises the average boat-person who we have mentioned earlier: The box of walking sticks, a step to aid them in getting up and down things (especially getting on and off buses) and the first aid kit as most are sporting at least one injury, which might be age or alcohol related, but my money is on mostly age with a helping touch of booze. The jetty is actually a dark brown colour, the silver sheen comes from all the hair they have shed.
And then on Saturday we saw another sea lion pup.
A huge ray.
And two little people on a see-saw!
A very british day at the beach
Wednesday was a very wet day, it rained pretty much all day, so we decided this would be a perfect time to go to the beach. We took a taxi to El Garrapatero which is located on the east coast of the island. The beach was very nice, however the weather was not. The kids had a great time running about, digging the sand and sitting in rock pools.
Me and Isabella trying to keep warm during one downpour.
Isabella celebrating warmth and cake.
Isabella getting warmed up in the taxi home.
Posy enjoying the wind blowing through her hair during our ride home.
She would have liked to have stuck her head out of the window if she could.
bays and channels
Bays and channels was the theme of Monday as we went on an excursion on a glass bottomed boat. The boat took us into a couple of bays where we could see sea-life through the bottom of the boat and our guide took us across the land to a couple channels, Las Grietas and the love channel, and Playa de el Parro (beach of the dog).
We saw lots of sea birds on the rocks and cliffs, a sea lion blocking our path on the jetty, fish in the sea and iguanas in various places. We swam in Las Grietas. Isabella, Charlotte and I donned wet suits and did a bit of snorkelling in one of the bays (middle photo).
The additional bonus was the best picture of a Blue Footed Boobie thus far (bottom left).
We also experienced a hairy moment when the driver of the boat got it stuck on a very large rock. We realised later that he had managed to crack one of the glass panels - I think he is going to be in trouble with his boss!
Clockwise from top left, the sea lion that had blocked our path on the jetty, a pile of marine iguanas enjoying the view, Charlotte and Isabella taking a dip at Las Grietas - the water was crystal clear.
Las Grietas channel.
Some Blue Footed Boobies perched on the cliffs.
A view through the bottom of the boat.
Our guide and the other passengers on the boat.
A treat
Our very nice airbnb host treated us to a day out on Saturday. Ramiro works for one of the big tour companies and his ship was in port, so he invited us to join his groups' day trip to the highlands.
Hilariously our first stop was Trapiche Ecológico, which, if you remember, we only visited on Sunday. However, this was serendipitous as we had run out of aguardiente and sugar cane juice the night before, so we were able to restock.
We were then treated to a very salubrious lunch at Manzanilla Ranch (free food and drinks). The most exciting bit was not the free beer and wine, but the free coke cola, 3 types of meat, fish and olives!! We even had pudding.
After lunch Isabella and I went off for a tour of the grounds so we could get our giant tortoises fix while Posy and Charlotte had a nap (Charlotte vigorously denies napping, but she was in a hammock for well over an hour and we all know how comfy they are). Anyway, Isabella and I had a lovely time learning yet more interesting facts about giant tortoises.
And, because it seems to be the thing to do here after you have visited giant tortoises, then Isabella and I descended into another lava tube (although this was very underwhelming as it was short and squat).
It was also fascinating to meet boat-people: tourists who do the ship thing; an interesting bunch indeed!
I told you they were giant!
Lots of tortoises in the Jacuzzi.
I am always surprised by how pineapples grow.
Isabella slightly reluctantly having her picture taken with a tortoise.
Isabella with her 'new friends' (her words).
I captured Isabella just as our bus started its engine and scared her.
Another day, another visit to some tortoises and so another picture of Isabella in a shell.
Our guide-for-day Daniel aka Ecuadorean Jack Black.
On our way to the shops on Thursday we popped to see Las Ninfas Lagoon, which is situated round the back of the Proinsular Supermercado.
It was a really tranquil spot and the lagoon was full of fish. Apparently you can see manta rays, baby sharks and birds (including flamingos) here.
Unfortunately they are renovating the boardwalk around the lagoon so we were limited as to how much we could see.
El chato
Wednesday, the day I have been waiting for since we came to the Galapagos Islands: El Chato giant tortoise reserve. This is the area where you can visit the tortoises in the wild and they are truly giant!
Our guide, Juan, was very informative regarding the tortoises at El Chato. The tortoise pictured here is around 90 years old.
If you love a giant tortoise then this is the place for you!
A giant tortoise.
A giant tortoise in a Jacuzzi: The pool is around 23 degrees and the tortoises dig these themselves!
Another giant tortoise.
Lots of giant tortoises (well that is the point of El Chato).
Just in case you were wondering what the back of a giant tortoise looks like.
Isabella with a giant tortoise to give a sense of perspective.
We also ventured down some more lava tunnels.
A picture of Posy (and Charlotte's legs).
On Sunday we went on a morning jaunt to the highlands of Santa Cruz.
We went in a tunnel formed by lava.
We had a lovely, albeit slightly muddy time.
We saw Cerro Mesa a volcanic crater formed when a sinkhole collapsed.
We had a lovely, albeit slightly chilly-windy time.
Mariano our guide was excellent and a lot of fun.
We saw a giant tortoise.
And some amazing views of Santa Cruz and the northern archipelago.
adriano cabrera
Lastly we went to Trapiche Ecológico a finca where they grow coffee, bananas, cocoa and sugar cane, amongst other things. They also produce lots of artisan products, like chocolate, coffee, sugar and aguardiente (alcohol made from sugar cane juice), to name but a few. Once we had a couple of shots of the aguardiente we were ready to buy some of their products. The owner is called Adriano Cabrera (pictured opposite) who moved to Galapagos in 1968 from the mainland. We had a great time!
Saturday was a day at the beach. We got Kevin Taxi over to Angemeyer Point.
We checked out the locals on Playa de los Alemanes.
Isabella doing her mermaid on the way home.
Another day at the beach.
It's just so exhausting!
I need a rest too!
At least we have a quiet shady spot.
boat jeopardy part 2
We decided to take a stroll along the front of Puerto Villamil on Thursday morning, mostly to try to distract ourselves from the impending boat journey back to Santa Cruz. It gave us a chance to say goodbye to Isabela Island. Puerto Villamil is much quieter and more tranquil than Puerto Ayora. The beach being easily accessible from the town makes it a wonderful place to be and the kids loved playing in the sand and pools. If you can stomach the boat journey then Isabela Island is well worth a visit.
The girls playing on the beach.
Playing on the Isabela sign.
Can you see the relief on their faces? Our return to Puerto Ayora - luckily no one vomited on the return journey.
Posy playing with Charlotte's camera on her phone, discovering her face. And also taking a photo of me.
tintoreras
On Wednesday morning we went on a boat tour (the fools we seem to be) of the Tintoreras Islands. These are small islands formed of volcanic rocks in the bay near the port. Lucky for us the water is very calm here as the islands create a very sheltered 'harbour' so it was lovely to be on the boat.
It was a good opportunity to see the local wildlife: seals, frigate birds, marine iguanas, white tipped sharks and blue footed boobies. We were also hoping to be able to see some Humboldt penguins, but alas they were not to be seen (turns out there are only 2 or 3 and they are elusive to say the least).
Photos: top left, a blue footed boobie; top-centre left, seal breeding area (if you zoom in you may be able to spot the seal in the tree line); bottom-centre left, white tipped sharks basking in the shallows; bottom left, Charlotte and Isabella taking a dip in the sea (Posy and I joined them shortly after).
After Posy's nap we went back down to the lagoons to spot more flamingos. The boardwalk was very long, but once committed we had to see it through to the end!
Flamingos in the lagoon.
Isabella admiring the flamingos.
More Flamingos.
Walking along the very long boardwalk.
isabella y isabela
We decided to venture further afield and so went over to Isabela Island on Tuesday morning. The boat journey was not a pleasant experience as it was very bumpy, which caused Isabella to be sick, which in turn caused me to be sick as she had covered me in her vomit. Anyway once we got to our hotel and had showered and cleaned our clothes it was all very funny to look back on.
On Tuesday afternoon we went to an Eco-lodge called Campo Duro in the highlands of the island, they grow a variety of fruits and care for giant tortoises from 1 years old till they are ready to breed at around 15 years old. It was a great way to spend the afternoon and reminded us of our time at Santa Lucia.
In the evening we went to the lagoon closest to the town to try to spot some flamingos; we saw only two. We then went down to the beach of Puerto Villamil.
Photos: Top left, Isabella and Isabela; middle left, us at Campo Duro (can you spot the tortoise?); bottom left, Charlotte and Posy on the boat as we are leaving Puerto Ayora - you can see the trepidation on their faces, although they got through the journey relatively unscathed.
One of the four different species of giant tortoise found on Isabela island. This is a juvenile at. Campo Duro
A view from the highlands to the coast of Isabela.
On Monday we went and explored the beach near The Darwin Research Centre.
We then headed back to the beach closer to where we live, but had to share it with a slumbering seal.
So Posy and I had used it as a photo opportunity and Isabella claimed it as her seal.
This place is truly amazing, we just popped down to the harbour front this morning to buy some boat tickets to get across to Isabela Island next week and to grab some cash from the ATM, when we saw a massive turtle swimming amongst the boats in the bay, a load of frigate birds swooping over the fishing boats and a seal sat by the feet of the fish monger lady (we did buy some fresh fish from her - straight from the sea to the boat to the lady to Isabella's lap).
There are also the obligatory pelicans sat in the trees, Sally Lightfoot crabs wandering over the rocks (these are the ones featured on the Prodigy's Fat of the Land album cover) and black marine iguanas basking on the rocks, the boardwalk and the pavements such a fantastic array of wildlife on our doorstep.
On Saturday Isabella got to see her friend again.
I feel it is going to be a regular feature on our shlep to and from the front.
Another view of the massive turtle swimming in the harbour.
Thursday was beach day. We went to Tortuga Bay beach which is about 2.5 km walk from town. This is the longest bit a sandy beach on the island (as the rest is either mangroves or volcanic rock straight into the sea. We walked the the length of the beach to a lagoon, which was idyllic and perfect for the girls to play on the beach in the sand and in the sea. Again the wildlife is amazing and so close: there were marine iguanas on the beach and in the sea; pelicans flying over head and diving to catch fish in the shallows; White and Black Tipped sharks skirting around the periphery of the mangroves and a seal laying in the shade.
Look up the lagoon beach back the way we came.
Looking out across the lagoon.
Looking down the beach towards the shark mangroves.
A marine iguana taking a stroll down the beach.
The girls on the beach at the lagoon surrounded by a load of finches
Bellie enjoys a dip in the sea.
Cooking Day wednesday
We wandered into town and went to the park.
In the afternoon we made tortillas Freddy style.
And granola too.
giant tortoise day
On Tuesday morning we ventured to Darwin Research Station to see the giant tortoise breeding centre - I was very excited as I have wanted to see this place and the tortoises since I was a child. Isabella, however, took some convincing.
A giant tortoise
Galapagos means saddle and the archipelago is named after the 'saddle' shape of these tortoises' shells
Baby tortoises. They keep them here until they are five years old.
Isabella, kind of, fulfilling her dream of riding on a giant tortoise.
Isabella's mule WITHDRAWAL program
We have had to put Isabella on a special program to help with her mule-withdrawal. It entails us visiting 'Mama Negra' at the park each day. So far it is working well and she hasn't quite noticed the lack of hair or animation.
first 24 hours in Galapagos
We arrived in the Galapagos on Saturday after a bit of long travelling day. We felt like Charlie Boorman in By Any Means as we travelled by taxi, then by plane (which had a stop off in Guayaquil), then a bus, then a boat and then another taxi (4x4 this time) to get to our apartment.
However, it was totally worth it. We have seen a lot of programmes about this place and so had high expectations and so far it has not disappointed. We spotted all the big four (although the giant tortoise was out of the window of the last taxi and Kevin was the only one who saw it) in the first 24 hours just walking to the market to get our weekly shop.
The big four
There are Blue Footed Boobies in this picture
A black Marine Iguana in it's natural habitat
A seal on a bench
Isabella and a giant tortoise (we will find a real soon I am sure)
2/3 of the Nomads getting on a boat to cross to Santa Cruz
Charlotte and I after alighting from the bus from the airport to the port
A pelican in a tree
Another Marine Iguana, but this one is on a boardwalk (I feel there will be lots of pictures of these)
adios nuestros amigos and amigas
Today we bid our friends a fond farewell. It has been a truly amazing time at Santa Lucia. The kids have been so happy and safe there. Charlotte and I have been useful and enjoyed the work we have done. But most importantly the staff have been so great and are really a very special bunch of people. We knew that Santa Lucia was an amazing place to return to and that we would have a good experience there, but what we have actually experienced has far exceeded our expectations: It has been perfect! Thank you guys for the food, the laughs, the friendship, the way you have all loved the kids and for welcoming us into your community and making us a part of it. We shall return!
Our last few days
This week we finished off as much as we could of the wiring of the Lodge. Needless to say Noé was very pleased with the work we have carried out.
On Tuesday a film crew from an Ecuadorean TV challenge popped up the mountain to do a piece on Santa Lucia. They ended up interviewing me and then filming the whole family tending the garden, it was very random.
However this is not the most random thing that happened that day; the appearance of a chihuahua running around the grounds of the Lodge was most disconcerting. No one had any idea how it got there considering it is a 2 hour hike up from the car park and the car park is about 30 minute drive from Nanegal. We named it Pequeno Perro.
On Wednesday Isabella got another ride on Kevincito, but this time I was in control of the reins.
the HOTLY anticipated release
Finally the moment you have all been waiting for, here is our appearance on Ecuadorean television. And before you ask, I didn't realise they were filming me walking out of the lodge - I was doing my catwalk walk.
There was also the most spectacular sunset. The view towards Nanegal was obscured by clouds which were below the mountain top. It felt like we were on top of the world.
Monday night was mojito night: Fretdy made us one of his famous mojitos to celebrate our last night with Leyder. We followed these up with a couple of beers. It was a subdued fiesta.
cock of the rock
After 17 years and 3 visits to the Santa Lucia Lodge I was finally coerced into going to see the Cock of the Rock. Leyder took me on Monday morning. We had to leave at 4am and embarked on a one and half hour hike over 4 km to where they present, we then had to hike back again. The birds wake up and present to the females at the crack-of-dawn; their calls are loud and spectacular. Unfortunately my pictures of these birds do not do the experience justice and I can't unload what I videoed, so you will have to wait until we get home to hear the full glory.
Kinkajou
A Kinkajou that Leyder spotted, but I snapped.
cock of the rock
What more can I say!
Top left: Me with an impressive buttress; I do love a big buttress. Bottom left: Leyder after crossing the river. Right: the peak emerging from the clouds - two minutes later it was shrouded in cloud once again.
Sunday: Today the group of America students left, thus ending a very busy period at the Lodge. It also meant that our friends on the staff get to have a few days off (and we get to enjoy the full run of the Lodge with only Leyder here to keep an eye on us), but this also means that we had to say goodbye to Nelly (below) and Tania (pictured with Noé). We love Nelly and Tania!! Fretdy (left) is back tomorrow and Noé on Tuesday.
Yesterday early evening I watched as the clouds cleared to reveal quite spectacular views of the Andes and the surrounding countryside. I know I keep putting these views on, but it is very special being here and being able to see these ever-changing views everyday.
(Left is the view from our bedroom window).
On Saturday we took a stroll to the orchidarium (which I helped to make on my first visit here in 2005). We then went down to the rope swing for some wholesome family swinging fun! The memories of the boys and Ben Cullis trying to see how far they could get the swing up the slippery hill came flooding back.
On Friday the girls were treated to a ride around the lodge on Kevincito (he is such a good mule). They thoroughly enjoyed themselves. I have a feeling that we might be buying a mule when we get home!!
Isabella and Luis (and of course Kevincito).
Isabella riding solo on Kevincito.
Isabella and Posy on Kevincito.
Charlotte put her loathing of all animals to one side to support the girls.
Posy riding solo on Kevincito
Below a picture of Posy that Freddie took (just because she looks so cute!).
Grand Designs
This week we have been putting new light circuits in the Lodge. We are wiring the new lighting ring from the power stored by the solar panels. Not sure why Noé thought we would be good at this, however his faith in us was well deserved as we have done a pretty good job (although it wouldn't pass building regs).
A Kevincito update: It turns out that Kevincito is actually a macho (male) mule!!!
Bellie's Dream Comes True
Tuesday seems to be mule day! I went down the mountain today with Luis to help him take the bags for the University group and bring back up some of the food for the next group arriving on Wednesday. However, I got to ride Mama Negro back up and when I got back Luis took Isabella for a ride on Kevincito: She absolutely loved it.
Back up to the lodge
After a very underwhelming weekend spent at the Santa Lucia offices, taking trips into Nanegal to get biscuits, we headed back up to the lodge.
Isabella walked about three quarters of the way up, with Kevin only having to piggy back her for the last bit.
We spent the rest of the day reacquainting ourselves with lodge-life and watching the Queen's funeral via photos sent from Patricia.
In the evening there was a fiesta to celebrate the last night of Lincoln University's stay. With songs, dancing and cervezas.
The weekend
Sunday was more trike fun, although this time we perfected the 'double-stack'!
Guess where we are
Saturday: This morning we walked into Nanegal to play in the park and pick up our much needed supplies.
Triker posy
We spent the rest of the day milling about the office. While Posy discovered the joys of the trike.
friday: A short walk in the Andes
We decided to have the weekend back at the office in Nanegal, mostly so we could resupply essentials (nappies, wipes and snacks).
The girls on the path down from the Santa Lucia lodge.
Isabella taking a break at one of the rest-stops.
Charlotte navigating a particularly slippery bit of the trail whilst carrying Posy.
the Kids love the mules!
Nelly showing Posy the mules. Nelly loves to kidnap Posy at any opportunity (they all do in fact).
international football
Today Santa Lucia hosted an international football match: Lincoln University v. Ecuadorean locals (and others).
Mud-bath!
The pitch was a quagmire by the end of the match; all involved were heavily soiled indeed!
Introducing Kevincito
Santa Lucia got a new mule on Tuesday and she (yes she) has been named Kevincito. I feel very honoured!
I have been reassured many times that this is not them making of me. However, if you are a Spanish speaker and this isn't the case then please email me at the address below!
Thursday was machete day! Noé and I went and cleared the paths to the waterfalls, the river and the sugar cane plantation.
This is us at the river.
This is how much effort Noé put in to ensuring that we could have a photo together!!
This is one of the waterfalls en route to the river, very beautiful.
Tuesday Mule day
This morning I went down the mountain with Luis and two of the mules to get supplies. Luis needed to stay down the bottom to await the arrival of a new mule, so I had to drive Mama Negra back up by myself. We did it in an hour.
Isabella donkey
We were also joined today by our own little donkeys. One was very friendly, the other, however, was a bit kicky.
It was really clear last night which gave us spectacular sightings of the moon and Andes.
Monday: I spent today making two new boxes for the mules with Luis. I used all the skills that Dad has taught me throughout my life: planing the wood, sawing the wood and nailing the wood. It is really tough work creating these from rough timber and with no power tools - properly hand made.
Saturday: A Day to Relax
Yesterday we just did very little: spent the day at the lodge together, exploring our surroundings.
Sunday: Cascades
This morning we ventured out to the waterfalls. It is a 2 km walk through the cloud forest. Isabella was amazing and walked under her own steam (with some encouragement) there and back.
Tuesday: I went down the mountain with Luis to help him bring up supplies on the mules.
Wednesday: Luis and I repaired some of the steps down to the sugar plantation.
Thursday: Noé and I cut tubes to be used to fix the electric fence. We also got Noé's new generator Rosa-Roco up and running. I don't have a photo of this, so here is a humming bird instead.
Friday: Noé and I worked in the sugar plantation fixing the tubes from Thursday to make a better circuit for the electric fence.
In the clouds
Sorry for the lack of content over the past week, we have been properly off the grid up here in Santa Lucia. But wow what a week we have had. I have been working with the guys up here and Charlotte has been spending time exploring the lodge with the girls.
The walk up here last Monday was not as bad as we remembered, no more arduous than a walk in the Lakes with the Bandles (except that we are at 2,000 meters).
It took us about an hour and a half to walk up the 2.5 km track to the top of the mountain. Charlotte carried Posy and Isabella walked most of the way under her own steam. Noé helped her for the last bit by giving her a piggy back ride (I was carrying a VERY heavy rucksack at the time).
We arrived in the morning and spent the rest of the time before lunch settling in to our new digs.
In the afternoon I helped Noé try to work out why his electric fence wasn't working properly. He put the fence in around the Santa Lucia sugar plantation to deter a spectacled bear from eating their crop (anyway more about that later).
It was just us and the guys from the lodge up here last week. They were getting the place ready for an influx of students from The University of Lincoln who arrived on Saturday (10th). It was so tranquil and idyllic.
Into the Clouds
We arrived at the offices of Santa Lucia Community Conservation yesterday after a 2(ish) hour car drive from Quito, with our resident taxi driver Walter. The offices are located in the village of Nanegal.
We spent today and yesterday with Graciela and her family. We had lunch there yesterday, after her explanation of what we will be doing and today we went to the local swimming pool.
Tomorrow we embark on the 2 hour hike up the mountain to the Santa Lucia lodge, where we will spend the next five days.
We had our first encounters of the wildlife of the area last night: a massive spider (see below) and a bat that decided to fly into Charlotte and my room (I was on the top bunk and could feel the breeze created from it's wings!).
One of the locals - well it is the tropics after all
The view from our abode
Sugar cane in the foreground and the Santa Lucia reserve in the background
The lodge is at the top of that mountain and we have to walk up to it!!
Our Sojourn begins
After a gruelling day of travel on the 1st September, we finally arrived in Quito safe and sound. The kids were amazing (especially Isabella who managed to become best friends with the man sat next to her on the plane to Miami) dealing with the 23 hours of constant travel.
We spent our first morning exploring the Casco Historico (Historic Centre) of Quito and getting used to being at 2,821 meters above sea level. I found it particularly difficult to walk, up a hill, while talking to Isabella. We then had lunch at a cafe in the square where the Presidential Palace is located (see photo opposite). We then went to poo poo park in the afternoon. Where, despite the abundance of dog poo and general rubbish, the rusty playground equipment entertained the family for a good hour or so.
The view we awoke to this morning
Panecillo
View from the Casco Historico
The view this evening from our roof terrace
Girls travelling 'light' in the airport
Tourists in town!
Posy rocking her hat
Poo poo park
Leaving Harpenden
We moved out of our house on the 13th August. Strange to see the house so empty.
It was a monumental packing effort, especially in the heat; being in the loft was not an enjoyable experience. Anyway we are out, residing in Berkhamsted and getting ourselves ready to fly on the 1st!!
Santa lucia
One of the central ideas behind our hiatus is to be able to enjoy different types of experiences. We want to be able to instil into our girls a sense of adventure, to broaden their horizons and to be able to give back in some way. With this in mind we decided that we would return to Santa Lucia, which is situated in the Ecuadorian cloud forest, where we will volunteer; working on projects varying in nature.
Logistical quandaries
Luckily we got onto passports early and therefore did not fall foul of the post-covid-mad-rush of applications. By March we were all passport secure. Immunisations on the other hand are not so straight forward. Luckily the team at Springfield Pharmacy in Harpenden are there to guide us through the process. None can be done until Posy turns 1 and some are live vaccines so must be spaced 4 weeks apart. So between March and the end of August we will all turn into pincushions, particularly the kids! Even then Posy can not have Typhoid until she is 2 and will need a final Hep B injection while we are away. It has given me a chance to utilise my timetabling skills while on mat leave (see the picture opposite). At least we don' t need visas!!
Attention: Double check the vaccines that your children need; check this with the pharmacy and your child's Red Book. We discovered after the administering of one vaccine to both children that they did not need it as it was part of their 6in1 one year child immunisation.