Nomad Norwoods
From Quito to NYC and all the places in between
a Change of perspective
We are embarking on an eleven month adventure from September 2022 to August 2023. Travelling to Ecuador, Galapagos, Columbia and various other destinations (which we haven't quite ironed out yet) and ending in New York.
The aim of this website is to be a link for us to share with our nearest and dearest where we are and what we are doing.
If anyone else stumbles across this then you are very welcome.
This is the photo that Charlotte sent to our 'taxi' driver Walter so he knew what to expect. It was a very hot wait outside the airport.
Leaving South America
On Tuesday we arrived in Buenos Aires for the night before leaving South America for Central America.
We didn't really have much time in BA, which is fine as Charlotte and I have spent many an hour there previously. However, we did find a pretty cool park that also had a very small fairground in it. The girls loved the merry-go-round and the slide.
We then had an early start and long day of travel on Wednesday as we headed to Costa Rica.
Back to the big city
On Thursday we went back to the centre of Bariloche (it's not a big city really).
We took a stroll down to the front and whiled away the morning walking the streets.
Cerro Otto
On Wednesday we decided to go up into the mountains to visit Cerro Otto. The girls started the day eating their 'kibble' (breakfast of dry cereal in an enamelled cup) and watching something on Isabella's Kindle.
We then got the bus to KM 5 and then walked to the cable car base station. We caught a cable car up to Cerro Otto, which was fun as it was just the four of us in the car.
There is a revolving restaurant (the only one in South America) up at the top. We enjoyed hot chocolates and croissants while admiring the 360 degree views, without having to leave our seats.
That's not an ice capped mountain, it's a volcano!
The views of the Andes were breathtaking.
As was the view down to the lake and towards where we are staying.
The girls enjoying a well deserved ice-lolly at KM 10.
We had had a right time of it trying to recharge our SUBE bus card. When we finally succeeded we needed to celebrate.
On Saturday morning we went down to the lake and pottered about on the rock strewn shore. It is still way too cold for a dip (although we did see some crazy people in the water). Isabella managed to fall in the water a few times, which was hilarious; she almost took me in with her a couple of times. Fun times!
Isabella with her bread-stick-moustache. She only has one shoe on as the other was filled with wet-lake-clay from her most recent dip in the lake.
Isabella and Posy reading books to each other.
To me this is one of the quintessential views of the Argentinian Lake District: Horses in the foreground and the Andes in the background.
Winter is coming: the sun is still warm, but the wind is very frigid. It is also very dry and dusty here (well we are on the edge of what is effectively a desert).
Posy particularly likes the roundabout and the slide in the park.
A lark in the park
This week we have been spending our time relaxing and enjoying not needing to do anything much. We found the local park a few days ago and the girls have had fun playing with the local kids: Isabella played football with the lads and held her own very well indeed.
Isabella is still in her Tigress phase!
Charlotte should definitely think about producing her paper film and story characters commercially as she would make a fortune (or get done for copyright infringement).
Posy contemplating what park activity to attack next.
The girls having a break from playing to partake in a well deserved piece of homemade Birthday cake.
riding on city buses for a hobby
Yesterday (Friday) we went into the centre of Bariloche to have a look around and to get some bits and bobs. Mostly we went in so we could get ourselves a SUBE card, which means we can now ride the buses up and down the lake: to me this means freedom!! No more long walks to the supermarket!!
Today (Saturday) we used our new found freedom to take a bus up to the top of the lake to see what is there; the answer is not a lot, but it was very pretty. We had a nice lunch and bought some fruit and got back in one piece, so I would say a successful bus ride.
We took the bus to the top of the lake today to admire the views across...
...and back down the peninsula towards where our cabin is.
Did I mention it reminds me of Austria!
It was very peaceful at the top of the lake and we enjoyed watching people out boating.
Me and the girls admiring the view.
we haven't done much this week. We have been down to the lake to admire the views.
Nice aren't they!
And to splash about in the water.
Isabella has mostly been Tigress from Kung-Fu Panda.
Both inside the cabin and outside in the garden.
While Posy has been herself playing on the slide.
The argentinian lakes
After another seamless journey we arrived in Bariloche on Sunday afternoon. Our cabin is cool, as you can see from the photos (oh yes it is a rainbow cabin!). The girls are enjoying exploring their new home.
We have spent the past two days settling in and investigating the area. The weather is hot and sunny and the whole place feels (and slightly looks) like the Italian or Austrian lakes. A lot of the houses look very Germanic.
The lake is very dramatic and cold. We had a dip in it yesterday (I paddled and Isabella swam) while Posy and Charlotte explored the shore.
We haven't taken many pictures yet and the ones I have don't quite capture the beauty of this place.
The inside of the cabin is just as colourful as the outside. It is cosy and lovely.
A close up view of the outside of our cabin. Take special notice of the carved Mary (I assume) statue).
park days
After the girls' three days of forced captivity in Berry, while we checked out the wondrous sights of this part of Patagonia, we thought it was only fair to spend as much time as possible for the rest of the week in the play park. It has been lovely not to have had to be anywhere or do anything and to just let the girls relax a bit. We knew that this part of the trip, from Paramaribo to the end of El Calafate, was going to be a schlep, but from this point onwards the pace slows back down again. We leave here on Sunday and fly up Bariloche for the rest of February before bidding South America a fond farewell and continue our nomadic adventures in Central America. The schlep has been worth it and not as horrific as we thought it might have been. The girls have coped with the numerous changes of locations brilliantly and we have all had loads of amazing experiences. January was a long month and a great start to 2023!
Isabella doing her Spiderman swinging on the swing.
Not sure why she needs to have a squinty face.
But she was happy, so who are we to question her!
Posy enjoying a gentle swing and an apple (which she kinda stole from her sister).
Isabella playing hopscotch in the park.
Another successful game.
The old wagon at the bottom of the hill.
A view towards the park and centre of town from the old wagon.
El chalten and mount fitzroy
Our continuing adventures with Berry took us to El Chalten in the Northern Ice Fields National Park of Patagonia on Wednesday. Apart from the vast amounts of ice (3rd largest ice field in the world) here you get a pretty decent view of Mount Fitzroy. It was a long drive (three hours each way), but the journey was spectacular and the destination was awe inspiring (and lunch wasn't too shabby either).
Again I took about a million photos of Mount Fitzroy from every angle I could.
We found a really nice play park in El Chalten for the kids to have a run-around (the views were pretty good too).
The girls burning off some of that been-in-a-car-all-day-energy.
Isabella on the Condor-springy-seesaw-type-thingy.
Views of the Northern Ice fields of Patagonia featuring Mount Fitzroy from the other side of the lake (taken on the journey to El Chalten).
Same place and view, just zoomed in a bit.
Looking back down Route 23, or as I called it the Windy Road, towards El Chalten.
I made Charlotte jump out of the car and stand in the road to take these, but I feel the risk was well worth it.
The girls playing at being dogs in their little house in La Zorra after our day at Moreno.
Posy having a well deserved rest on the return journey from El Chalten. And yes Hertz has car seats for hire!
the Moreno glacier
I have been dreaming about seeing the Moreno Glacier since I first learned about it when I was a child and Tuesday was the day this dream was fulfilled. We drove out to Patagonia's Southern Ice Fields National Park in the morning so that we could take the boat across the lake and see the awesomeness of the glacier up close. We then walked along the boardwalks so that we could see it from a different perspective. The sound of the ice cracking and breaking off into the lake was thunderous.
As you can imagine I took about a million pictures of the glacier from every angle and perspective I saw it from. However, as you will be thankful to read, I have only included a choice few here (more are available on request).
Now we have seen glaciers before (in Europe and in New Zealand), but I have never seen one that is so blue. The icebergs in the lake were amazing to see too.
Posy admiring the view of the glacier from the boat (she looked like a little fisher-woman in her yellow coat).
Icebergs in the lake. Don't forget these are just the tips of the icebergs!
The girls having a snack and water break at one of the lookout points.
Posy patiently waiting for her water supply to be replenished for the one millionth time that hour.
Isabella's alternative persona 'Bob-Dog' taking a well earned rest after completing the boardwalk trail.
It was a bit chilly on the beach by the lake. It reminded us of many a Bandle half-term holiday!
adventures with Berry
On Monday we picked up our new hire car, who was promptly named Berry by Isabella (best not to ask how she decides these), for three days and went on lots of adventures. The first adventure was to explore some of the sights in the surrounding area, which meant we drove a bit around the lake (Berry is pictured opposite with the lake). We saw some flamingos in the lake too (I tell you I never expected to see so many flamingos when embarking on this trip - to be honest they are getting a bit common now).
El Calafate
What a place! It has such a nice feel to it. We have spent the last couple of days exploring the town (mostly the eateries and the park). It is a well kept town and you get the impression that the population really goes out of their way to look after the place. It has the feel of an alpine town. I love the relaxed atmosphere, which isn't affected by the tourists rushing around getting on their excursions. The views of the surrounding area are pretty as well.
And thanks to the 'blue-pound' it is really cheap here for us!
Everyone loves the park!
Posy is getting her slide-time in.
Isabella creates so much static electricity from going down the slides that she gives everyone massive shocks.
Back into Argentina
On Thursday we took a Bus Sur back across the border to Argentina. We checked out of Chile with no issues (above picture of the Chilean border post).
However, we were at the Argentinian border post (see above) for about an hour and a half; it was very slow. We then continued our journey to El Calafate and arrived mid afternoon. That's the last of our bus journeys for a while.
Our bus was pretty cool though.
The view from the park across the bay.
Puerto natales
Our last couple of days in Puerto Natales were relaxed. We spent most of our time pottering around and going to the local park, making sure we dodged the frequent rain showers. The weather had taken a turn and was significantly colder.
back into Torres del paine
Sunday took us back into the national park. This time we drove the southern road to Refugio y camping Las Torres so that we could see the towers in their full glory. It was a tough drive as the roads are mostly gravel. However, as the day was so clear, it offered us spectacular views of Lake and Glacier Grey. We then drove around Lago Pehoé where we found a house we would like to move to (see photo).
We reached Refugio Las Torres in time for a spot of lunch. This is a start and/or finish of the W and O routes around the park, so it was full of backpackers who had achieved this feat. The refuge gave us some pretty good views of the towers.
Above the refuge was the campsite that Ewan and Charlie stayed in, so I was excited.
The towers are the quintessential iconic image of the Torres Del Paine National Park and you really have to go the extra mile to be able to view them. Again the roads were a trial in themselves.
The girls coveted the cuddly toy guanacos on sale in the refuge cafe and gift shop.
There were many a sad farewell to the guanaco.
After much deliberation we decided that we would head to Laguna Azul to get another view of the towers. This was another hour and half further into the park, but we decided we had gone this far, we should go a bit further. It was worth it. As soon as we got on the tarmacked (oh yeah!) road to the lake we had an amazing view of the towers from Laguna Amarga, which had flamingos on it.
The road didn't stay tarmacked for long, but the flamingos were a lovely surprise.
Laguna Azul was better than we had anticipated. The water was lovely and the views were worth the extra effort and driving. It was very remote and tranquil by the water.
Above: Isabella and Dave-Car.
Below: a guanaco
Dave did us proud!
The two and half hour drive back to Puerto Natales was blighted by terrible roads: the highway started off well, but then we hit the road construction and so we reduced to gravel roads. The frustrating thing is that the new concrete road was literally right next to us. Why they had decided to demolish the old road before opening the new one was beyond comprehension. It was slow going and hard work, especially as Dave likes to lose his back end on the gravel.
Torres del paine
On Saturday, after picking up Dave our hire car, we headed into Torres Del Paine National Park. We went to Largo Gray to try to see the glacier, which we glimpsed from the beach. The roads are hard going, but we made it. The views were spectacular.
Bellie demonstrating how windy it was on the beach (it was very windy).
Charlotte and Posy playing peek-a-boo on the way back from the beach.
The views on drive back were pretty too.
The water in the lakes is so blue.
Puerto Natales
The nomads touched down in Puerto Natales on Thursday afternoon after another seamless coach journey.
This city is the gateway to Torres Del Paine National Park and is situated on the coast of Chile surrounded by islands and fjords.
We spent Wednesday morning exploring Punta Arenas.
We saw the beach and the bay.
And found the obligatory town-name-sign.
Where, of course, we took some pictures.
Crossing the straights of magellan
On Tuesday we set off on a 9 1/2 hour coach journey from Ushuaia in Argentina to Punta Arenas in Chile. It was amazing as we could see more of the stunning scenery of Tierra Del Fuego and then the land dramatically changed to flat brown prairie full of guanacos when we entered Southern Patagonia. The best bit for me was the ferry crossing as we crossed the Straits of Magellan.
Photo above: looking back towards Bahia Azul where we embarked on the ferry. Opposite: looking towards Punta Delgado where we disembarked the ferry. That water is the pacific Ocean and the Straits of Magellan.
Above the Argentinean border post. Below the Chilean border post.
Above is our little boat that took us on the trip. Below some sea lions on some rocks.
Fin del mundo
I have been so looking forward to doing this part of the trip. We can only access this area at this time of the year as it is summer at the end of the world (fin del mundo).
We arrived in Ushuaia on Saturday evening after a quick stop in Buenos Aires. As it is summer and we are so far south it doesn't really get dark until gone 11pm.
On Sunday we took an afternoon boat ride out onto the Beagle Channel. We visited Isla Bridges and saw the circular walls that the Fuegians created to help shield their shelters from the wind (see photo opposite). I remember learning about Tierra del Fuego and being fascinated about the people who inhabited this 'land of fire' before Europeans arrived.
For me today was mostly about the views. The Andes mountains plunge into the ocean here and only reappear in Antarctica.
Below is the view back towards Ushuaia from the Isla Bridges.
The windswept islands of the Beagle Channel, Isla Thomas and Isla Mary Ann, with the Andes and Ushuaia in the background. Very spectacular with added dramatic skies.
Well technically we are still in summer. Isabella has noticed that the climate has changed slightly.
Faro Les Eclaireurs.